Here's an easy way to live a little greener and save a little money: install low-flow faucet aerators in your home. Now, don't worry. "Low-flow" does not mean you'll be washing your hands under a puny trickle of water. Nope. That's because the aerator is like a tiny sieve that mixes air into the water stream. You won't even notice you're using less!
Was your home built prior to 1989? Do the fixtures date to that era or earlier? Then chances are high your faucets need the addition of aerators. Turn on the cold water and observe: does the water gush out fast and unrestricted as, say, water from your garden hose might? Or does it flow fast, yet feel somewhat lighter and fizzier in your hands?
If it's the former, you probably need aerators. Unscrew the faucet spigot (the nozzle where the water comes out) to double check. The latter means you probably have them already.
Aerators are cheap to buy and easy to install, simple even for beginner DIY'ers. The site Green Your has a fabulous page on aerators, with photos, links and an installation guide. Just remember to protect your faucet's finish from scratches: if you have to use a wrench, wrap the spigot in a few layers of masking tape.
Oh, and here's another tip: aerators need cleaning from time to time. It's easy: just unscrew each one from its faucet and soak the whole thing in some white vinegar, then gently scrub. This removes alkaline or other buildup that might interfere with a smooth flow of water.
Friday, April 30, 2010
Thursday, April 29, 2010
DIY Knife Block
Fellow DIY crafter Chris Diclerico craved the same design, yet rather than shelling out $110 for the original, Chris got to work and created his own Schaschlik hack. And after checking out the Flickr photos of his creation, I'm loving Chris' design almost as much as the original.
If you're comfortable working with a table saw, you absolutely should try this! You'll need a few wood planks (Chris used 3' laminated pine shelves from Home Depot), wood glue, finishing nails, an orbital sander, water-based varnish, and a whole slew of bamboo skewers (Chris used 2,300!) for holding the knives in place. Make sure you find skewers that are long enough for at least the length of the blade of your longest knife.
Happy crafting!
If you're comfortable working with a table saw, you absolutely should try this! You'll need a few wood planks (Chris used 3' laminated pine shelves from Home Depot), wood glue, finishing nails, an orbital sander, water-based varnish, and a whole slew of bamboo skewers (Chris used 2,300!) for holding the knives in place. Make sure you find skewers that are long enough for at least the length of the blade of your longest knife.
Happy crafting!
add precious inches of counter space to your kitchen
A kitchen island is the easiest way to add precious inches of counter space to your home. If you don't want to splurge on a custom job, you're left with two budget-friendly options: kitset or DIY. Let's look at some of the pros and cons of each approach.
Kitset Kitchen Island: Pros and Cons
Kitset kitchen islands -- the kind you buy ready-to-assemble -- are now available in a nice range of styles, from rustic to sleek modern. Although the best ones are far from cheap, they'll set you back far less than custom work. The other big advantage is convenience: kitset islands can be assembled by just about anyone.
Other pros: kitset islands are moveable, which can be useful when, for example, you are entertaining a crowd. If you sell your home, you can just disassemble your kitset and pack it up. Basically, if all you need is an extra place to stow pots, pans and cookbooks, the kitset is the most convenient solution.
Here's the big down side: you inevitably sacrifice quality when you opt for kitset furniture. In the case of kitchen islands, that lack of quality is most evident in the countertop material, which may not be durable enough to meet the needs of keen home cooks.
Kitchen Island Kitset Shopping
Going the kitset route? IKEA, the king of kitset, is the natural place to start looking. Unfortunately, IKEA offers only four kitchen islands right now, ranging in price from $199 for the GROLAND model (pictured) to $379 for the larger STENSTORP. Factor in the cost of shipping for those not within driving distance of an IKEA store and you're looking at quite a lot of money down. The pared-down style of IKEA's islands is another con: for your money, you're basically paying for a set of open shelves. If hiding clutter is important to you, look elsewhere.
Fortunately, Target comes to the rescue with an impressive selection of kitset islands. Although not necessarily sturdier than the IKEA islands, Target's kitsets at least come with drawers and/or cabinets for a more finished look, which some find more appealing than open shelving. The prices are higher, but select models come with free shipping. Expect to pay upwards of $500 for a Target island (the company's Grand Americana model is a whopping $929, although that includes free shipping right now); less than $500 will get you a nice little rolling cart, but definitely not a full-size kitchen island.
DIY Kitchen Island Pros and Cons
Kitset furniture not your thing? The DIY route is your best bet if you've got the time and talent to make your own kitchen cart-- or, if not talent, at least a willingness to learn as you go! Done right, the end result should be far sturdier than a kitset version. You can also tailor it to fit your needs. For example, you might opt for a built-in style instead of a free-standing island. In that case, you might consider adding electrical outlet/s and/or plumbing, too.
A DIY kitchen island can also incorporate a much higher quality countertop than kitset versions. Think butcher block wood, powerful granite or a tough solid surfacing product, such as Corian. These not only look great, they will last forever and resist chips and dents.
DIY Kitchen Island Know-How
The Web contains a wealth of instruction for would-be kitchen island DIY'ers. Start by gathering design ideas through keyword searches (try Google Images) or home and garden websites. Photo galleries like this one courtesy of Better Homes and Gardens are especially helpful.
Next you'll need a step-by-step guide to follow. Do It Yourself has a lengthy kitchen island article worth checking out that includes lots of design advice. It's a good place to start.
I really liked Ron Hazelton's kitchen island how-to. It breaks the project down into simple steps and includes lots of helpful photos. This one is ideal for beginner or intermediate carpenters. You'll assemble the whole thing by hand, but it's made from modular, ready-made cabinets with a butcher block countertop.
Using modular cabinets for the base gives you a sturdier and more workable storage area than an IKEA kitset, but with some of the convenience of kitset assembly. Great idea, right?
Also take a look at Popular Mechanics' kitchen island project. This one is a true from-scratch version. It's not very large, but it's a perfect little DIY project if you want to practice your woodworking skills. Read the article then click to download and print the plans.
Beginner DIY'er? If you're having second thoughts, wondering if a kitchen island is beyond your current skill level, try starting with a simple rolling cart project like this one from Home Envy. It'll let you test out your DIY/carpentry abilities without biting off more project than you can chew!
use Ribbon Storage Makeover your Closet
Build a butcher block chopping board from strips of hardwood. This is a nice little project for beginner woodworkers. – Ready Made
Here's another tutorial worth checking out: how to make pretty fabric coasters. Valentine's Day gifts, perhaps? – Blissfully Domestic
Speaking of fabric, here's how to make a wrapping paper and ribbon organizer (pictured) in two hours flat. – Centsational Girl
Win a water- and energy-saving Delta Pilar Single Handle Pull-Down Kitchen Faucet. To be in the running, be sure to enter by January 23. – One Project Closer
An avid fan of Young House Love transforms a teensy linen closet into a charming mini home office. – Young House Love
Kitchen renovation on the horizon? Take a peek at one expert's kitchen design forecast for 2010. – Decorati (via The Kitchen Designer)
And if you're into trends, be sure to check out these inspiring eco-friendly homes. – Cal Finder
Gussy up a dingy home exterior with durable siding. This Charles & Hudson post presents siding options, simplified. – Charles & Hudson
Here's another tutorial worth checking out: how to make pretty fabric coasters. Valentine's Day gifts, perhaps? – Blissfully Domestic
Speaking of fabric, here's how to make a wrapping paper and ribbon organizer (pictured) in two hours flat. – Centsational Girl
Win a water- and energy-saving Delta Pilar Single Handle Pull-Down Kitchen Faucet. To be in the running, be sure to enter by January 23. – One Project Closer
An avid fan of Young House Love transforms a teensy linen closet into a charming mini home office. – Young House Love
Kitchen renovation on the horizon? Take a peek at one expert's kitchen design forecast for 2010. – Decorati (via The Kitchen Designer)
And if you're into trends, be sure to check out these inspiring eco-friendly homes. – Cal Finder
Gussy up a dingy home exterior with durable siding. This Charles & Hudson post presents siding options, simplified. – Charles & Hudson
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
How to Clear a Clogged Drain
Here's the magic recipe for clear drains: boiling water, baking soda, and white vinegar.
Seriously, these pantry finds do the trick. Make it a habit to pour boiling water down your drains every week or so; it helps melt the grease. I simply do this with the leftover hot water from my kettle when I make tea. And periodically (say, every month), disinfect your drains with this little homemade recipe:
1. Pour a cup of baking soda down the drain followed by a cup of white vinegar (pour the vinegar down slowly as it will start to fizz up.)
2. Cover the drain and let it sit for a few minutes.
3. Then pour about a gallon of boiling water down the drain.
If you like to leave behind a fresh scent in your drains, I love Fresh Wave's Multi-Purpose Additive, which is made of natural plant oils. I pour a little down the drain, and this green cleaner does an amazing job of eliminating odors.
P.S. This drain solution is for maintaining drains that are relatively clear to start. If you have standing water already in your sink or tub, you'll first need to roll up your sleeves and grab the plunger.
Seriously, these pantry finds do the trick. Make it a habit to pour boiling water down your drains every week or so; it helps melt the grease. I simply do this with the leftover hot water from my kettle when I make tea. And periodically (say, every month), disinfect your drains with this little homemade recipe:
1. Pour a cup of baking soda down the drain followed by a cup of white vinegar (pour the vinegar down slowly as it will start to fizz up.)
2. Cover the drain and let it sit for a few minutes.
3. Then pour about a gallon of boiling water down the drain.
If you like to leave behind a fresh scent in your drains, I love Fresh Wave's Multi-Purpose Additive, which is made of natural plant oils. I pour a little down the drain, and this green cleaner does an amazing job of eliminating odors.
P.S. This drain solution is for maintaining drains that are relatively clear to start. If you have standing water already in your sink or tub, you'll first need to roll up your sleeves and grab the plunger.
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
creative use of recycle empty Coffee Can
Coffee cans: neglected design classics or purely utilitarian? One lamp designer swears by the former, and came up with this DIY coffee can pendant lamp shade design made from three of the shiny silver containers. Brew a fresh cup and get started on yours! – ReadyMade
Make a secret hideaway for your little treasures. An oil painting (or any artwork with a wide frame) swings open on hinges to expose a storage area for jewelry, keys ... any small valuables you want to conceal. – Design Sponge
One cool Craigslist find plus a dose of DIY creativity equals ... this sweet little bathroom vanity. I just love the fresh, vintage-modern vibe of this dinged up secretary after its makeover. Nice job, guys. – Made2Create
Two kids in a cramped Paris apartment. The architect's advice? Build up and create "a house in a house." Instead of an ugly room partition, this airy kids' room now boasts upstairs and downstairs sleep and play areas, one for each child. I'm enchanted ... although the absence of an upstairs safety rail is making my toes curl! – Dwell
Blogger Karla shares her latest DIY success story. Commiserate as her first attempt at adding an adhesive decorative backing to her kitchen cabinets totally bombs ... then rejoice as she saves the day with an inexpensive Hallmark product. – It's the Little Things That Make a House a Home
Love glam? Look and learn as two small chests (bought on clearance, bargain hunters!) are refinished and utterly transformed with aluminum leaf. According to our instructor, Jenny, it's not as hard as you might think, although the prep and application process is a tad time-intensive. – Little Green Notebook [via Beach Bungalow 8]
Calling all DIY'ers and fans of the DIY Network show Man Caves. Enter the Ultimate Man Caves Sweepstakes competition now and every day through February 26 for a chance to win $50,000 in cash. Just think of the man (or girl) cave you could create with all that spare change! – DIY Network
Don't know about you, but I love to get inspired by looking at photos of other people's houses. Just for fun, take a peek at the Top 10 Celebrity Houses of 2009 and see how you do on the quiz. – Hooked on Houses
how to Remove Black Mold of the wall
The most common type found got a mold problem? Black mold.
Black mold can develop wherever there is constant moisture from water damage, humidity, water leaks, condensation, water infiltration or flooding.
In your home, mold is most likely to grow on painted or wallpapered surfaces, insulation materials, ceiling tiles, drywall, carpet, fabric, and upholstery. Pay special attention to attics, basements and hidden crevices that don't see much light, such as behind your fridge or dishwasher; on your windowsills; and behind your toilet bowl, to name just a few.
And mold isn't just ugly. It slowly destroys whatever surface it grows on. Even worse, it's compromises your health. Common responses to mold exposure are nasal stuffiness, eye irritation, wheezing, and skin irritation, says the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC). But there's also a possibility of permanent immunological, psychological, pathological and neurological effects and fungal infections. Black mold has also been linked to cases of hemorrhagic lung disease in infants, according to the American Academy of Pediatrics.
Here's the good news: most cases are not too hard for the average homeowner to treat, as long as the affected area is less than 10 square feet, says the Environmental Protection Agency. Early detection is key -- mold can develop as fast as 24-48 hours after initial water exposure.
Here's how to eradicate mold and keep your family safe -- and when to call in the pros:
Mold leaves some very conspicuous signs, such as:
1. Black, green, or brown patches. The most obvious symptom of a mold problem can be detected with your own two eyes. Sometimes, but not always, mold is visible on the affected surface.
2. Smell. You know the kind. If there's a certain area of your home with a distinct, musty smell (and it's not coming from any rotten food products), chances are you've got mold. Look around the area and see if you can spot any visible water damage. If there's no possible way for excess moisture to build up (i.e. as is the case in basements, bathrooms and kitchens), you may have a different problem on your hands.
2. Peeling Paint. Peeling paint is never a good sign, as the most common reason for paint to stop adhering to the wall is moisture.
3. Decaying Wood. Although not all decayed wood is a direct result of mold, it is plausible. Check exposed wood for any visible signs of rot or decay, which could point to a bigger problem such as mold or [gasp!] termites.
4. Chalky Substance. Your walls' binding agent can sometimes break down under moist conditions, leaving a chalk-like residue. This is a clear sign of water damage and/or mold issues.
5. Health Symptoms. If you have a sudden allergic reaction to a certain area of your home (and you haven't recently changed cleaners, carpet and/or furniture), mold could be a reason for the onslaught of allergens.
Now that you're familiar with the warning signs, there are steps you can take to (a) detect the molded area, and (b) solve the problem. Here's how to tackle the issue:
1. Bring in a certified professional to test for mold in your home. Although there are numerous DIY mold-testing kits on the market, steer clear. At-home testers can be spotty and often provide negative readings, even if you do have a problem with mold. Invest in this step with a quality professional who can properly identify the extent of your home's mold infestation.
2. If your mold professional determines that the mold problem is on the surface only, you can remove it yourself. Remember to wear a full face mask to avoid inhaling any of the cleaning solutions and/or surrounding mold spores; the EPA recommends an N-95 respirator. A pair of work gloves and disposable clothing are recommended too. Never attempt to wipe the mold when dry, as you risk spreading the spores. Instead, lightly spray water on the mold to dampen the area, which will keep the mold in place while you clean.
3. In a bucket, mix one part detergent, five parts bleach and twenty parts warm water. Make sure the area where you're working is well-ventilated. If the material that you are cleaning can withstand a stronger bleach solution (i.e. drywall and/or concrete), you can mix up to ten parts bleach of the same solution. Warning: Never mix bleach with ammonia; it will release toxic fumes.
4. Prefer a natural approach to cleaning? Borax, tea tree oil, vinegar, hydrogen peroxide, baking soda, and grapegfruit seed extract all have fungus-fighting properties. Check out these recipes for all-natural mold-banishing recipes using benign ingredients. Or try a solution of detergent and water minus the bleach.
5. Use a scrub brush with bristles to wash down the pre-dampened surface with the solution.
6. Let dry with proper air circulation and repeat if necessary.
If your certified professional determines that your mold is in areas that aren't easily accessible -- namely inside the walls, ceilings, and floors -- you may be facing a bigger task than you're prepared for. Ask about air-filtration options and any further steps the pro recommends, such as demolition.
Ever have an experience with mold in the home? Tell us what you did about it in the comments below.
Black mold can develop wherever there is constant moisture from water damage, humidity, water leaks, condensation, water infiltration or flooding.
In your home, mold is most likely to grow on painted or wallpapered surfaces, insulation materials, ceiling tiles, drywall, carpet, fabric, and upholstery. Pay special attention to attics, basements and hidden crevices that don't see much light, such as behind your fridge or dishwasher; on your windowsills; and behind your toilet bowl, to name just a few.
And mold isn't just ugly. It slowly destroys whatever surface it grows on. Even worse, it's compromises your health. Common responses to mold exposure are nasal stuffiness, eye irritation, wheezing, and skin irritation, says the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC). But there's also a possibility of permanent immunological, psychological, pathological and neurological effects and fungal infections. Black mold has also been linked to cases of hemorrhagic lung disease in infants, according to the American Academy of Pediatrics.
Here's the good news: most cases are not too hard for the average homeowner to treat, as long as the affected area is less than 10 square feet, says the Environmental Protection Agency. Early detection is key -- mold can develop as fast as 24-48 hours after initial water exposure.
Here's how to eradicate mold and keep your family safe -- and when to call in the pros:
Mold leaves some very conspicuous signs, such as:
1. Black, green, or brown patches. The most obvious symptom of a mold problem can be detected with your own two eyes. Sometimes, but not always, mold is visible on the affected surface.
2. Smell. You know the kind. If there's a certain area of your home with a distinct, musty smell (and it's not coming from any rotten food products), chances are you've got mold. Look around the area and see if you can spot any visible water damage. If there's no possible way for excess moisture to build up (i.e. as is the case in basements, bathrooms and kitchens), you may have a different problem on your hands.
2. Peeling Paint. Peeling paint is never a good sign, as the most common reason for paint to stop adhering to the wall is moisture.
3. Decaying Wood. Although not all decayed wood is a direct result of mold, it is plausible. Check exposed wood for any visible signs of rot or decay, which could point to a bigger problem such as mold or [gasp!] termites.
4. Chalky Substance. Your walls' binding agent can sometimes break down under moist conditions, leaving a chalk-like residue. This is a clear sign of water damage and/or mold issues.
5. Health Symptoms. If you have a sudden allergic reaction to a certain area of your home (and you haven't recently changed cleaners, carpet and/or furniture), mold could be a reason for the onslaught of allergens.
Now that you're familiar with the warning signs, there are steps you can take to (a) detect the molded area, and (b) solve the problem. Here's how to tackle the issue:
1. Bring in a certified professional to test for mold in your home. Although there are numerous DIY mold-testing kits on the market, steer clear. At-home testers can be spotty and often provide negative readings, even if you do have a problem with mold. Invest in this step with a quality professional who can properly identify the extent of your home's mold infestation.
2. If your mold professional determines that the mold problem is on the surface only, you can remove it yourself. Remember to wear a full face mask to avoid inhaling any of the cleaning solutions and/or surrounding mold spores; the EPA recommends an N-95 respirator. A pair of work gloves and disposable clothing are recommended too. Never attempt to wipe the mold when dry, as you risk spreading the spores. Instead, lightly spray water on the mold to dampen the area, which will keep the mold in place while you clean.
3. In a bucket, mix one part detergent, five parts bleach and twenty parts warm water. Make sure the area where you're working is well-ventilated. If the material that you are cleaning can withstand a stronger bleach solution (i.e. drywall and/or concrete), you can mix up to ten parts bleach of the same solution. Warning: Never mix bleach with ammonia; it will release toxic fumes.
4. Prefer a natural approach to cleaning? Borax, tea tree oil, vinegar, hydrogen peroxide, baking soda, and grapegfruit seed extract all have fungus-fighting properties. Check out these recipes for all-natural mold-banishing recipes using benign ingredients. Or try a solution of detergent and water minus the bleach.
5. Use a scrub brush with bristles to wash down the pre-dampened surface with the solution.
6. Let dry with proper air circulation and repeat if necessary.
If your certified professional determines that your mold is in areas that aren't easily accessible -- namely inside the walls, ceilings, and floors -- you may be facing a bigger task than you're prepared for. Ask about air-filtration options and any further steps the pro recommends, such as demolition.
Ever have an experience with mold in the home? Tell us what you did about it in the comments below.
Sunday, April 25, 2010
use FrogTape to Cover the paint bleed
FrogTape is made with a unique polymer called PaintBlock, which creates a micro-barrier that seals the tape's edges as soon as it comes in contact with paint. When you lift off the FrogTape, the membrane breaks and you have a clean line -- no paint bleed.
See a video showing the technology.
So what's up with typical painter's tape? According to Frog Tape, masking tapes were developed back in the day when most interior paint was oil-based. Oil paint has a high "viscosity," which means it's thicker and doesn't spread as easily under tape. Today, most paint used in homes is water-based latex, which has a low viscosity, and seeps easily into cracks and crevices -- and underneath masking tape.
FrogTape has won so many awards that it advertises itself as "the only tape with a trophy shelf." It earned an innovation award from Popular Science magazine -- and another innovation award from Handy Magazine, which named it one of the best products for DIYers. At the 2008 National Hardware Show in Las Vegas, FrogTape won two Retailers Choice Awards.
Before considering FrogTape, note that it won't work in all applications. Extremely bumpy surfaces are notoriously difficult to tape off successfully. EVen with a high-tech tape, paint bleed is common on bumpy surfaces. For best results, press the tape as securely as possible.
Also, the surface accepting the tape must be cured thoroughly -- not just dry to the touch. The timing to cure paint depends on many factors, including air temperature and humidity. Latex paint may take up to a month to completely cure.
Finally, when using FrogTape on surfaces other than smooth latex (such as on aluminum), you should test the tape first in an inconspicuous place.
FrogTape comes in two widths -- 24mm and 33mm -- and costs about $7 to $10. It comes in a recyclable container to keep it clean and nick free. It's available through Lowe's, Ace Hardware, Amazon, and building supply retailers.
See a video showing the technology.
So what's up with typical painter's tape? According to Frog Tape, masking tapes were developed back in the day when most interior paint was oil-based. Oil paint has a high "viscosity," which means it's thicker and doesn't spread as easily under tape. Today, most paint used in homes is water-based latex, which has a low viscosity, and seeps easily into cracks and crevices -- and underneath masking tape.
FrogTape has won so many awards that it advertises itself as "the only tape with a trophy shelf." It earned an innovation award from Popular Science magazine -- and another innovation award from Handy Magazine, which named it one of the best products for DIYers. At the 2008 National Hardware Show in Las Vegas, FrogTape won two Retailers Choice Awards.
Before considering FrogTape, note that it won't work in all applications. Extremely bumpy surfaces are notoriously difficult to tape off successfully. EVen with a high-tech tape, paint bleed is common on bumpy surfaces. For best results, press the tape as securely as possible.
Also, the surface accepting the tape must be cured thoroughly -- not just dry to the touch. The timing to cure paint depends on many factors, including air temperature and humidity. Latex paint may take up to a month to completely cure.
Finally, when using FrogTape on surfaces other than smooth latex (such as on aluminum), you should test the tape first in an inconspicuous place.
FrogTape comes in two widths -- 24mm and 33mm -- and costs about $7 to $10. It comes in a recyclable container to keep it clean and nick free. It's available through Lowe's, Ace Hardware, Amazon, and building supply retailers.
how to Replace a Broken Tile by yourself
The only thing uglier than a cracked tile, in my opinion, is a poorly repaired one. You know the kind: uneven fragments of tile stuffed with grout. There's really no reason to have such an eyesore in your home, especially since replacing a ceramic tile is so much easier than it sounds:
1. If you were around for the installation, hopefully you've saved some of the leftover tiles for this very occasion. If you don't have any leftovers, bring the broken pieces to a tile store to see if they have anything close -- or if they know of a service that offers made-to-order replacement tiles.
2. Now you have to break the cracked tile into pieces without damaging the surrounding tiles. There are two ways to do this. One is to cover the tile with a rag and use a hammer to break it up. If the pieces are still stuck in the mortar, gently use a chisel to get them out. Then use a chisel or putty knife to scrape out much of the old adhesive, and a grout remover to get rid of the surrounding grout. The other way is to use a grout saw manual grout removal tool to remove the surrounding grout (be careful not to damage adjacent tiles). Then pry off the damaged tile with a chisel (use the rag and hammer trick above if it won't come out easily), scrape out the adhesive with a putty knife, and clean up remaining debris.
3. You're ready to set the new tile. Spread tile adhesive over the back of your tile, but be sure not to add too much. You don't want it spilling over into the grout lines. Push the tile firmly into place and be sure it looks straight. Let it dry overnight or as long as the manufacturer recommends. The next day you'll be ready to grout!
4. Make sure you use the same color grout that you used initially, or it will be slightly off. If you don't know what grout was used, get some samples from your local home improvement store and test them out on a separate, disposable surface. When you've found the perfect match, use the edges of a rubber grout float to press the grout into the tile joints and smooth it out. When the grout is no longer tacky, clean up the excess with a damp sponge. Don't forget to seal the grout after it is completely dry.
Here are more great tile tips:
Say goodbye to grout grime with natural DIY grout-cleaning cleaning solutions
These glass tiles for the home change color with heat exposure!
On the hunt for affordable tile for at-home applications? Check out 5 Great Resources for Tile
And check out this author's blog, Design Milk
1. If you were around for the installation, hopefully you've saved some of the leftover tiles for this very occasion. If you don't have any leftovers, bring the broken pieces to a tile store to see if they have anything close -- or if they know of a service that offers made-to-order replacement tiles.
2. Now you have to break the cracked tile into pieces without damaging the surrounding tiles. There are two ways to do this. One is to cover the tile with a rag and use a hammer to break it up. If the pieces are still stuck in the mortar, gently use a chisel to get them out. Then use a chisel or putty knife to scrape out much of the old adhesive, and a grout remover to get rid of the surrounding grout. The other way is to use a grout saw manual grout removal tool to remove the surrounding grout (be careful not to damage adjacent tiles). Then pry off the damaged tile with a chisel (use the rag and hammer trick above if it won't come out easily), scrape out the adhesive with a putty knife, and clean up remaining debris.
3. You're ready to set the new tile. Spread tile adhesive over the back of your tile, but be sure not to add too much. You don't want it spilling over into the grout lines. Push the tile firmly into place and be sure it looks straight. Let it dry overnight or as long as the manufacturer recommends. The next day you'll be ready to grout!
4. Make sure you use the same color grout that you used initially, or it will be slightly off. If you don't know what grout was used, get some samples from your local home improvement store and test them out on a separate, disposable surface. When you've found the perfect match, use the edges of a rubber grout float to press the grout into the tile joints and smooth it out. When the grout is no longer tacky, clean up the excess with a damp sponge. Don't forget to seal the grout after it is completely dry.
Here are more great tile tips:
Say goodbye to grout grime with natural DIY grout-cleaning cleaning solutions
These glass tiles for the home change color with heat exposure!
On the hunt for affordable tile for at-home applications? Check out 5 Great Resources for Tile
And check out this author's blog, Design Milk
are your Squeaky Cabinet so Noisy
Are your pantry door squeaks pretty much every time you open it. I tried lubricants, hinge-replacements and seemingly everything else there is, but nothing seemed to do the trick.
Until now.
These days, my pantry door is entirely squeak-free, and I'm happy to share my secret with you.
1. Apply Elmer's Slide-All Dry Spray Lubricant ($3) to each hinge on the door. Don't forget to wear a dust mask and gloves for protection, and to keep the area well-ventilated. Also, keep a dry rag handy to shield any lubricant drips from your hardware and countertop -- although the company claims the product won't leave an oily stain.
2. Be sure to apply the lubricant on both sides of the hinge: inside and out.
3. Open and close the door of the cabinet to allow the lubricant to penetrate all parts of the hinge.
4. Tighten all hinges with a screwdriver. This is an important step -- don't skip it!
Your cabinets should be squeak-free -- unless, of course, there's a mouse hiding in your pantry.
Got any other squeaky-door solutions to suggest? Share them here!
Until now.
These days, my pantry door is entirely squeak-free, and I'm happy to share my secret with you.
1. Apply Elmer's Slide-All Dry Spray Lubricant ($3) to each hinge on the door. Don't forget to wear a dust mask and gloves for protection, and to keep the area well-ventilated. Also, keep a dry rag handy to shield any lubricant drips from your hardware and countertop -- although the company claims the product won't leave an oily stain.
2. Be sure to apply the lubricant on both sides of the hinge: inside and out.
3. Open and close the door of the cabinet to allow the lubricant to penetrate all parts of the hinge.
4. Tighten all hinges with a screwdriver. This is an important step -- don't skip it!
Your cabinets should be squeak-free -- unless, of course, there's a mouse hiding in your pantry.
Got any other squeaky-door solutions to suggest? Share them here!
how to Unclog a Tube of Caulk only half a tube
Whether you're using acrylic latex caulk to plug up a drafty window or silicone caulk to waterproof a tub, you'll usually end up needing only half a tube at one time. So it's pretty much a given that when you reach for that tube again, it'll be stopped up with dried caulk.
No need to toss a perfectly good (half) tube of caulk, though. There's an easy way to get at the fresh caulk that's trapped behind the dried-up stuff. Read on:
1. Grab a nice, sharp utility knife and use it to split the caulk tube's nozzle lengthwise. Always push a sharp utility knife away from you, not toward you. If you want to be extra safe, Consider securing the tube in a vise or c-clamp first. This will prevent a slippery tube from rolling suddenly, causing your grip on the knife to slip too.
2. Use a flat-head screwdriver to pry loose the dried-up caulk. It's likely plugging up the entire nozzle, but chances are the caulk in the tube itself is just fine and usable.
3. Repair the slit nozzle by wrapping duct tape around the nozzle several times.
4. Load the tube into your caulking gun and get to work!
Got any other tips for unclogging a tube of caulk? Share them here!
No need to toss a perfectly good (half) tube of caulk, though. There's an easy way to get at the fresh caulk that's trapped behind the dried-up stuff. Read on:
1. Grab a nice, sharp utility knife and use it to split the caulk tube's nozzle lengthwise. Always push a sharp utility knife away from you, not toward you. If you want to be extra safe, Consider securing the tube in a vise or c-clamp first. This will prevent a slippery tube from rolling suddenly, causing your grip on the knife to slip too.
2. Use a flat-head screwdriver to pry loose the dried-up caulk. It's likely plugging up the entire nozzle, but chances are the caulk in the tube itself is just fine and usable.
3. Repair the slit nozzle by wrapping duct tape around the nozzle several times.
4. Load the tube into your caulking gun and get to work!
Got any other tips for unclogging a tube of caulk? Share them here!
easy to Remove Dried Paint from your Wood Floor
First, try to slide a very sharp blade underneath the drips. Opt for a craft knife, utility knife or very sharp kitchen knife. (Don't use a putty knife; it's way too blunt for the job.) Be extremely gentle, so as not to damage the wood. You may find that the drips pop right off with a little careful leverage.
No luck? Try this:
If it's latex paint you're dealing with, you may be able to soften things up by pouring some hot soapy water on the affected spot. Leave the area covered to soak for a while. Then rub with a cloth, scrape with your fingernail or try the blade again. Hopefully this time things will start to come loose.
Still won't budge? Time for the hot air solution: simply warm the dots of paint with a hair dryer. This may make them soft enough to be peeled up. Make sure keep the dryer on a low-air, high-heat setting and be patient about giving the heat time to work.
If you tried all of that without success, it might be time to crack out the chemicals. Try dabbing each drop of paint with a little rubbing alcohol or acetone nail polish remover. You might also try a latex paint remover like Lift Off or an all-purpose remover like Goof Off.
If you go this route, use a Q-tip and be very cautious. Your goal is to soften the paint just enough that small drips can be popped loose. Use too much and you risk damaging your floor's glossy finish. The last thing you want to do is solve one problem while creating another.
Got any other tips for removing dried paint from wood floors? Comment below!
No luck? Try this:
If it's latex paint you're dealing with, you may be able to soften things up by pouring some hot soapy water on the affected spot. Leave the area covered to soak for a while. Then rub with a cloth, scrape with your fingernail or try the blade again. Hopefully this time things will start to come loose.
Still won't budge? Time for the hot air solution: simply warm the dots of paint with a hair dryer. This may make them soft enough to be peeled up. Make sure keep the dryer on a low-air, high-heat setting and be patient about giving the heat time to work.
If you tried all of that without success, it might be time to crack out the chemicals. Try dabbing each drop of paint with a little rubbing alcohol or acetone nail polish remover. You might also try a latex paint remover like Lift Off or an all-purpose remover like Goof Off.
If you go this route, use a Q-tip and be very cautious. Your goal is to soften the paint just enough that small drips can be popped loose. Use too much and you risk damaging your floor's glossy finish. The last thing you want to do is solve one problem while creating another.
Got any other tips for removing dried paint from wood floors? Comment below!
how to Root out Popcorn Ceiling
If you decide to paint your ceiling after removing the popcorn, do a light sanding first; some sticky residue from the popcorn is bound to remain. If the ceiling is downright unsightly, do some repairs and apply a few coats of ceiling paint to cover it all up.
Special Ways to Unclog Clogged Drains
First, it's a good idea to be proactive. If you notice that the water is draining a bit slower, fill the sink, tub, or other offending vessel with cold water. Then open the drain. Usually, the weight of all that water is enough to clear a minor clog. If not, fill the sink or tub again, open the drain, and use the cupped palm of your hand like a plunger to add a bit of pressure. This will clear most clogs.
No luck? Bring out the big guns. Connect your garden hose to an outdoor spigot. Drag it to your sink or tub, even if they're located on the second floor. Poke the hose in the drain, and stuff a towel around it. Have a helper turn on the outdoor spigot. After a few seconds, you'll hear the sweet swishing sound of freely draining water. Guaranteed.
Okay, so you may not want to toss your plunger. It may still come in handy for toilet clogs, but the hose trick works there, too. And it works for clogged dishwasher drains as well. I once talked an appliance repairman into trying it. We had to open the access panels, undo the drain hose clamp, and use duct tape to attach the hose to the tubing...but it worked like a charm.
No luck? Bring out the big guns. Connect your garden hose to an outdoor spigot. Drag it to your sink or tub, even if they're located on the second floor. Poke the hose in the drain, and stuff a towel around it. Have a helper turn on the outdoor spigot. After a few seconds, you'll hear the sweet swishing sound of freely draining water. Guaranteed.
Okay, so you may not want to toss your plunger. It may still come in handy for toilet clogs, but the hose trick works there, too. And it works for clogged dishwasher drains as well. I once talked an appliance repairman into trying it. We had to open the access panels, undo the drain hose clamp, and use duct tape to attach the hose to the tubing...but it worked like a charm.
how to Unclog Your Gas Cooktop's Burners
To clean your gas stovetop's burners safely and quickly, follow these easy steps:
1. Make sure all four burners are turned off.
2. Disassemble the individual burner units. Most cooktops have four or five burners, each one consisting of four parts: a grate (the elevated surface that pots and pans rest on), a cap, a burner and a non-removable base. The grate, cap and burner should simply lift off each base piece, no tools required.
3. Wash each burner unit in hot soapy water, rinse and dry. Stick with plain old soap or dish detergent and water, since chemical cleansers could be flammable. While you're at it, might as well roll up your sleeves and scrub the grates and caps, too.
4. Use a pin, needle or straightened paper clip to clear gunk from the burner (flame) openings. An old toothbrush might be useful as well. Lay the individual pieces out to air dry.
5. Reassemble the burners and switch each one on to ensure all systems are go. Lots of blue flame? Great. If not, check that the burners were repositioned correctly.
You'll notice there's a small hole in each of the four burner base pieces. These are called the electrodes and they are where the flames shoot out and connect with each burner unit (the parts you took off and washed). Be sure to match the electrode with the corresponding opening in the burner assembly or the flame will not ignite.
1. Make sure all four burners are turned off.
2. Disassemble the individual burner units. Most cooktops have four or five burners, each one consisting of four parts: a grate (the elevated surface that pots and pans rest on), a cap, a burner and a non-removable base. The grate, cap and burner should simply lift off each base piece, no tools required.
3. Wash each burner unit in hot soapy water, rinse and dry. Stick with plain old soap or dish detergent and water, since chemical cleansers could be flammable. While you're at it, might as well roll up your sleeves and scrub the grates and caps, too.
4. Use a pin, needle or straightened paper clip to clear gunk from the burner (flame) openings. An old toothbrush might be useful as well. Lay the individual pieces out to air dry.
5. Reassemble the burners and switch each one on to ensure all systems are go. Lots of blue flame? Great. If not, check that the burners were repositioned correctly.
You'll notice there's a small hole in each of the four burner base pieces. These are called the electrodes and they are where the flames shoot out and connect with each burner unit (the parts you took off and washed). Be sure to match the electrode with the corresponding opening in the burner assembly or the flame will not ignite.
How to Hang and Paste Wallpaper yourself
Wallpaper projects vary by room, room size, and the condition of your walls. The following project demonstrates how to hang pre-pasted paper-backed vinyl wallpaper in a room that does not contain existing paper (so we won't be looking at the ins and outs of stripping old wallpaper). Let's assume the walls are in reasonably good condition, with perhaps some old nail holes to patch up. (Click here to learn how to repair damaged walls.)
SKILL LEVEL
Intermediate. You may not need experience using power tools, but hanging wallpaper does require plenty of patience and an eye for detail. Uneven lines and seams can stick out like a sore thumb when the project is complete.
COST
Wallpapering a room is a lot more expensive than painting. Most papers cost about $30 per roll, but you can find some brands for as little $14 or as high as $100 or more per roll. Papering a fairly typical 12-square-foot bedroom with 8-foot ceilings would require about 12 roll. At $30 per roll, this works out to around $400. (Brewster's wallpaper estimate chart and wallpaper calculator are a couple free online tools you might find useful.)
Calculate with caution, though: there are both standard rolls and double size rolls, and lengths per roll vary from brand to brand and from one design to another. Make sure you know exactly how much paper you're getting per roll before settling on a brand or a specific design.
You must also factor in the cost of papering supplies. See below for a complete list of everything you'll need to do the job. Chances are you already own many items on the list, but you should probably allow about $50-$100 for additional purchases.
SHOPPING TIPS
Wallpaper newbie? Consider avoiding highly structured patterns like stripes or geometrics which are far more difficult to hang perfectly aligned. This goes double if your room is unusually-shaped or if you have an old home with uneven surfaces.
Also, definitely take home samples before committing to a design, just as you would with paint. However, bear in mind that wallpaper often has to be special-ordered, which might take a couple of weeks or more.
TIME INVESTMENT
Day 1: Four hours of surface preparation. Allow more time if you need to strip old wallpaper first.
Day 2: About eight hours for hanging the wallpaper. That's about twelve hours total for a 12-foot-square room.
TOOLS & SUPPLIES
In addition to your chosen rolls of wallpaper, you will need the following:
For Surface Prep:
Bucket
Sponge
Mild detergent
Screwdriver
Plastic or canvas dropcloths
Tube of spackling paste
Putty knife
Wallpaper smoother
Wallpaper seam roller
Fine grit sandpaper
One-gallon bucket of primer*
Stirring stick, paint brush
Paint roller
Standard nap (3/8-inch) roller cover
Plenty of water for cleanup.
*Tip: Choosing primer: One gallon of primer will be adequate for this project, but for very small or large areas you should calculate your exact needs before starting out. Also, consider using a specialty pre-wallcovering primer, like Zinsser's Shieldz, for easier application and stripping.
For Papering:
Ladder or step stool, depending on height of walls; Large pair of sharp scissors (industrial shears or quality sewing scissors are ideal)
Pencil
Measuring tape
4-foot level
Water tray OR a tub of paste activator (see below)
Large sponge
Very sharp utility knife with lots of extra blades
Vinyl smoother
Seam roller
Vinyl-to-vinyl adhesive
*Tip: Your workstation can be any large surface that allows you to measure and cut lengths of wallpaper at a comfortable height. A large table is fine if you don't mind it suffering some surface damage. You can also improvise, balancing a sheet of plywood on a couple of sawhorses.
Wallpapering Obstacles: Corners, Windows, Doors, and Outlets
Corners:
1. Always end one strip and start a new one when you've reached a corner. This helps conceal seams and allows redrawing of the plumb line to keep everything perfectly straight. Simply guide the existing strip into position into and around the corner, then trim it with just one quarter inch of overlap left behind.
2. Now re-do the plumb line as close to the corner as possible and begin a new sheet. Use the seam smoothing roller on the area of overlap. First, you may need to apply a little vinyl-to-vinyl adhesive to the underside of the overlapping section. Refer to the wallpaper manufacturer's instructions to find out whether or not this is required.
Other obstacles:
As the work progresses, you're bound to encounter difficult spots like doorways, windows and outlet openings*. Don't attempt to measure and cut these openings in the paper prior to hanging. Instead, apply paper right up to and over obstacles.
1. Align and smooth the paper over the wall and right up to window and door frames. Carefully cut openings, allowing plenty of overlap, and then trim to size with scissors. Finally, use the putty knife to press the edges into perfect alignment and, finally, use the blade to trim to size.
2. Make sure the power is OFF before working with wet wallpaper near outlets and switches. Paper right over each one, then use your blade to slit an "x" over it. Peel the paper back very cautiously and snip off some of the excess with scissors. Now press and smooth what's left into place so that it surrounds the outlet or switch and trim with the blade. The edges don't have to be perfectly straight in this case, as the outlet or switch plate will cover any rough edges.
*Tip: Once you get in a work groove, you should be able to simultaneously prep and apply two or three sheets of paper at a time. However, stick to one sheet at a time for difficult spots such as corners and doorways. You don't want to rush these important spots and end up making a mess. Once again, it's all about taking your time.
SKILL LEVEL
Intermediate. You may not need experience using power tools, but hanging wallpaper does require plenty of patience and an eye for detail. Uneven lines and seams can stick out like a sore thumb when the project is complete.
COST
Wallpapering a room is a lot more expensive than painting. Most papers cost about $30 per roll, but you can find some brands for as little $14 or as high as $100 or more per roll. Papering a fairly typical 12-square-foot bedroom with 8-foot ceilings would require about 12 roll. At $30 per roll, this works out to around $400. (Brewster's wallpaper estimate chart and wallpaper calculator are a couple free online tools you might find useful.)
Calculate with caution, though: there are both standard rolls and double size rolls, and lengths per roll vary from brand to brand and from one design to another. Make sure you know exactly how much paper you're getting per roll before settling on a brand or a specific design.
You must also factor in the cost of papering supplies. See below for a complete list of everything you'll need to do the job. Chances are you already own many items on the list, but you should probably allow about $50-$100 for additional purchases.
SHOPPING TIPS
Wallpaper newbie? Consider avoiding highly structured patterns like stripes or geometrics which are far more difficult to hang perfectly aligned. This goes double if your room is unusually-shaped or if you have an old home with uneven surfaces.
Also, definitely take home samples before committing to a design, just as you would with paint. However, bear in mind that wallpaper often has to be special-ordered, which might take a couple of weeks or more.
TIME INVESTMENT
Day 1: Four hours of surface preparation. Allow more time if you need to strip old wallpaper first.
Day 2: About eight hours for hanging the wallpaper. That's about twelve hours total for a 12-foot-square room.
TOOLS & SUPPLIES
In addition to your chosen rolls of wallpaper, you will need the following:
For Surface Prep:
Bucket
Sponge
Mild detergent
Screwdriver
Plastic or canvas dropcloths
Tube of spackling paste
Putty knife
Wallpaper smoother
Wallpaper seam roller
Fine grit sandpaper
One-gallon bucket of primer*
Stirring stick, paint brush
Paint roller
Standard nap (3/8-inch) roller cover
Plenty of water for cleanup.
*Tip: Choosing primer: One gallon of primer will be adequate for this project, but for very small or large areas you should calculate your exact needs before starting out. Also, consider using a specialty pre-wallcovering primer, like Zinsser's Shieldz, for easier application and stripping.
For Papering:
Ladder or step stool, depending on height of walls; Large pair of sharp scissors (industrial shears or quality sewing scissors are ideal)
Pencil
Measuring tape
4-foot level
Water tray OR a tub of paste activator (see below)
Large sponge
Very sharp utility knife with lots of extra blades
Vinyl smoother
Seam roller
Vinyl-to-vinyl adhesive
*Tip: Your workstation can be any large surface that allows you to measure and cut lengths of wallpaper at a comfortable height. A large table is fine if you don't mind it suffering some surface damage. You can also improvise, balancing a sheet of plywood on a couple of sawhorses.
Wallpapering Obstacles: Corners, Windows, Doors, and Outlets
Corners:
1. Always end one strip and start a new one when you've reached a corner. This helps conceal seams and allows redrawing of the plumb line to keep everything perfectly straight. Simply guide the existing strip into position into and around the corner, then trim it with just one quarter inch of overlap left behind.
2. Now re-do the plumb line as close to the corner as possible and begin a new sheet. Use the seam smoothing roller on the area of overlap. First, you may need to apply a little vinyl-to-vinyl adhesive to the underside of the overlapping section. Refer to the wallpaper manufacturer's instructions to find out whether or not this is required.
Other obstacles:
As the work progresses, you're bound to encounter difficult spots like doorways, windows and outlet openings*. Don't attempt to measure and cut these openings in the paper prior to hanging. Instead, apply paper right up to and over obstacles.
1. Align and smooth the paper over the wall and right up to window and door frames. Carefully cut openings, allowing plenty of overlap, and then trim to size with scissors. Finally, use the putty knife to press the edges into perfect alignment and, finally, use the blade to trim to size.
2. Make sure the power is OFF before working with wet wallpaper near outlets and switches. Paper right over each one, then use your blade to slit an "x" over it. Peel the paper back very cautiously and snip off some of the excess with scissors. Now press and smooth what's left into place so that it surrounds the outlet or switch and trim with the blade. The edges don't have to be perfectly straight in this case, as the outlet or switch plate will cover any rough edges.
*Tip: Once you get in a work groove, you should be able to simultaneously prep and apply two or three sheets of paper at a time. However, stick to one sheet at a time for difficult spots such as corners and doorways. You don't want to rush these important spots and end up making a mess. Once again, it's all about taking your time.
how to Cleaning Dirty Refrigerator Coils
The fridge is right up there with heating and air conditioning costs, using about 15 percent of a home's total power. Its refrigerant coils, located at the base of the unit, are designed to remove heat from the unit. When caked with gunk, they're forced to run longer and more often. A machine with soiled coils requires about 25% more energy (and produces that much more CO2 emissions) to function properly than a fridge with a clean underbelly. And all that extra work translates to dollars and cents.
An average family's dust-free fridge (16 to 23 cubic feet) uses approximately 150 to 200 kilowatt hours (kWh) per month, which costs anywhere between $9.50 and $12.20. A study revealed that homeowners could cut electricity costs by as much as 3% to 6% annually (around $100, or 150 kilowatt hours) just by cleaning those coils.
At first, I was afraid of what was lurking beneath my own fridge. Especially since I have a cat, and I spend staggeringly large parts of my days wrangling huge wads of fur. Thankfully, I found a lot less detritus under my fridge than I expected. And the whole process was, surprisingly, very manageable. So I've promised myself that I'll do it every time the appliance manufacturer recommends, which is every month or so.
Here's how to clean your refrigerator coils:
1. Power off. (A good way to tell if you've cut the juice is to check that the light is off when you open the door.)
2. Locate the coils. They're usually found near the floor, hidden behind the rectangular cover panel, also called a kick plate.
3. Remove this protective plate. Usually it's attached via spring clips and just snaps off, but some require removal of two tiny screws. If in doubt, consult your owner's manual. (Tip: An open door may provide better leverage.)
4: Remove caked-on dust from the lower coils with the crevice tool on your vacuum cleaner.
5. Insert a long-handled brush and sweep it over and under the coils. Don't worry about pushing more debris into the back of the unit: This type of brush is designed to dislodge dirt from behind, later to be vacuumed up.
6. Replace the cover and plug it back in. (Again, this may be easier to do with the door open.) Line up the two notches on either side, and the cover should easily pop back into place. (Again, consult the user manual if reattachment is problematic.)
An average family's dust-free fridge (16 to 23 cubic feet) uses approximately 150 to 200 kilowatt hours (kWh) per month, which costs anywhere between $9.50 and $12.20. A study revealed that homeowners could cut electricity costs by as much as 3% to 6% annually (around $100, or 150 kilowatt hours) just by cleaning those coils.
At first, I was afraid of what was lurking beneath my own fridge. Especially since I have a cat, and I spend staggeringly large parts of my days wrangling huge wads of fur. Thankfully, I found a lot less detritus under my fridge than I expected. And the whole process was, surprisingly, very manageable. So I've promised myself that I'll do it every time the appliance manufacturer recommends, which is every month or so.
Here's how to clean your refrigerator coils:
1. Power off. (A good way to tell if you've cut the juice is to check that the light is off when you open the door.)
2. Locate the coils. They're usually found near the floor, hidden behind the rectangular cover panel, also called a kick plate.
3. Remove this protective plate. Usually it's attached via spring clips and just snaps off, but some require removal of two tiny screws. If in doubt, consult your owner's manual. (Tip: An open door may provide better leverage.)
4: Remove caked-on dust from the lower coils with the crevice tool on your vacuum cleaner.
5. Insert a long-handled brush and sweep it over and under the coils. Don't worry about pushing more debris into the back of the unit: This type of brush is designed to dislodge dirt from behind, later to be vacuumed up.
6. Replace the cover and plug it back in. (Again, this may be easier to do with the door open.) Line up the two notches on either side, and the cover should easily pop back into place. (Again, consult the user manual if reattachment is problematic.)
how to Refinishing your Wood Floors
Wood floors can be striking -- when they're in good condition, of course. But over time the wood begins to show its age and break down. This can happen through normal wear and tear (like constant foot traffic). So if you're looking to prevent or put off refinishing, make sure to keep floors mopped and swept, and take every opportunity to avoid unnecessary dirt and wear: doormats at every entrance and floor protector pads on all furniture legs.
But if that's not enough and you've got the time, skill and money to refinish wood floors yourself, here's a breakdown of what it takes:
SKILL LEVEL: Beginner/Intermediate
Almost anyone can refinish their own floors. It does take a bit of elbow grease to manage a floor sander as well as transport the rented sander from the shop to your house. You'll also need to remove all furnishings from the room, so try to have at least one other person assist you throughout the process.
Rent the following tools from your local home improvement store:
Floor sander: $40-$50 per day
Edge or orbital sander: $20-30 per day
Industrial vacuum: $20-30 per day
Other tools you should have on hand:
Hammer and nail set: $20 and $5, respectively
Paint pad and pole to apply varnish: $15
Water-based polyurethane varnish: $50-$60 for one gallon
COST
This project can typically be completed for less than $230. But a larger room will require more varnish, which will increase the cost. The tool rental prices in your area may differ from our findings; this will also impact the final cost as well.
TIME INVESTMENT
Reserve 2-3 hours for prep. The time it will take to refinish your hardwood floors is based on your experience and size of the room(s) to be refinished. As a general rule, a 10'x15' room will require 10-15 hours to refinish.
PREP
1. Remove furniture and any obstructions on the floor, such as heater covers and pipe-collars. Use clear plastic to mask the wood baseboard moldings and tape off rooms to keep dust from flying into other areas of the house. Open all windows in the room for ventilation.
2. Inspect the floor for nail pops and hammer them down. In fact, it's a good idea to countersink nails so they are at least ¼" below floor level.
3. Prep your drum floor sander; it'll take at least an hour. When you rent the floor sander, be sure to purchase sandpaper belts. You should use 80-grit paper on a drum sander.
SANDING
1. Sanding test: Once your floor is prepped and your sander is set up, you can start sanding. It's best to test your sander on a sheet of scrap plywood to make sure you're comfortable with its operation.
2. Sanding plan: Sand according to the type of floor you have. A floor with little or no damage will only require one pass of the drum sander using fine sandpaper. For a strip wood floor, sand back and forth along the direction of the wood grain. For a parquet floor, sand diagonally across the tiles.
3. Start sanding: Position the drum sander about 6" from the wall in the center of the room and sand a straight path in the direction of the floorboards. Keep the machine constantly moving. If you must stop, lift the sander and turn it off.
4. Select the right grit: If the sander isn't removing enough finish, then switch to a coarser grit paper. That said, try to use the finest grit necessary.
5. Make your second pass: If you need to make a second pass across your floors, overlap the paths by about ½". Replace the sandpaper as needed.
6. Edge the borders: Use your edge sander to reach the finish along the walls and in the corners. Maintain light and even pressure.
7. Clean up remaining sanding dust with the industrial vacuum. Most sanding machines have a dust collector, but you'll want to do another round with a vacuum to collect the finer dust.
SEALING
1. Seal with polyurethane: Seal the sanded wood floors with a mixture of water-based polyurethane and water. Apply using a painting pad and a pole extension. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for proper ratio mix and dry times.
2. Apply the final coat: The final coat should be a thin layer of undiluted water-based polyurethane applied in the same manner as the first sealant. You can use the painting pad and pole extension again. Brush with the grain and apply as evenly as possible.
3. Buff: Once the finish has dried, use an abrasive pad to buff the floor.
4. Repeat the process: Your floor may require 2-3 coats depending on thickness and look desired. Make sure you buff between each coat.
5. Apply the finishing touches: After your last finish application, buff the floor surface with clean terry cloth rags to remove surface imperfections and diminish the gloss.
But if that's not enough and you've got the time, skill and money to refinish wood floors yourself, here's a breakdown of what it takes:
SKILL LEVEL: Beginner/Intermediate
Almost anyone can refinish their own floors. It does take a bit of elbow grease to manage a floor sander as well as transport the rented sander from the shop to your house. You'll also need to remove all furnishings from the room, so try to have at least one other person assist you throughout the process.
Rent the following tools from your local home improvement store:
Floor sander: $40-$50 per day
Edge or orbital sander: $20-30 per day
Industrial vacuum: $20-30 per day
Other tools you should have on hand:
Hammer and nail set: $20 and $5, respectively
Paint pad and pole to apply varnish: $15
Water-based polyurethane varnish: $50-$60 for one gallon
COST
This project can typically be completed for less than $230. But a larger room will require more varnish, which will increase the cost. The tool rental prices in your area may differ from our findings; this will also impact the final cost as well.
TIME INVESTMENT
Reserve 2-3 hours for prep. The time it will take to refinish your hardwood floors is based on your experience and size of the room(s) to be refinished. As a general rule, a 10'x15' room will require 10-15 hours to refinish.
PREP
1. Remove furniture and any obstructions on the floor, such as heater covers and pipe-collars. Use clear plastic to mask the wood baseboard moldings and tape off rooms to keep dust from flying into other areas of the house. Open all windows in the room for ventilation.
2. Inspect the floor for nail pops and hammer them down. In fact, it's a good idea to countersink nails so they are at least ¼" below floor level.
3. Prep your drum floor sander; it'll take at least an hour. When you rent the floor sander, be sure to purchase sandpaper belts. You should use 80-grit paper on a drum sander.
SANDING
1. Sanding test: Once your floor is prepped and your sander is set up, you can start sanding. It's best to test your sander on a sheet of scrap plywood to make sure you're comfortable with its operation.
2. Sanding plan: Sand according to the type of floor you have. A floor with little or no damage will only require one pass of the drum sander using fine sandpaper. For a strip wood floor, sand back and forth along the direction of the wood grain. For a parquet floor, sand diagonally across the tiles.
3. Start sanding: Position the drum sander about 6" from the wall in the center of the room and sand a straight path in the direction of the floorboards. Keep the machine constantly moving. If you must stop, lift the sander and turn it off.
4. Select the right grit: If the sander isn't removing enough finish, then switch to a coarser grit paper. That said, try to use the finest grit necessary.
5. Make your second pass: If you need to make a second pass across your floors, overlap the paths by about ½". Replace the sandpaper as needed.
6. Edge the borders: Use your edge sander to reach the finish along the walls and in the corners. Maintain light and even pressure.
7. Clean up remaining sanding dust with the industrial vacuum. Most sanding machines have a dust collector, but you'll want to do another round with a vacuum to collect the finer dust.
SEALING
1. Seal with polyurethane: Seal the sanded wood floors with a mixture of water-based polyurethane and water. Apply using a painting pad and a pole extension. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for proper ratio mix and dry times.
2. Apply the final coat: The final coat should be a thin layer of undiluted water-based polyurethane applied in the same manner as the first sealant. You can use the painting pad and pole extension again. Brush with the grain and apply as evenly as possible.
3. Buff: Once the finish has dried, use an abrasive pad to buff the floor.
4. Repeat the process: Your floor may require 2-3 coats depending on thickness and look desired. Make sure you buff between each coat.
5. Apply the finishing touches: After your last finish application, buff the floor surface with clean terry cloth rags to remove surface imperfections and diminish the gloss.
how to Patch Peeling Plaster yourself
Cracks and peeling tend to appear regularly due to settling of the house, contraction and expansion of framing, and moisture buildup in the walls.
I awoke one morning not being able to stand the peeling and cracks any longer. The choices, I knew, were: cover with a thin sheet of drywall, skim coat the walls with plaster, or patch up the plaster.
Nor was I about to apply a skim coat, a process that involves covering the entire wall with a new topcoat of plaster or drywall compound. It's a difficult skill to master, especially if you're doing it only once or twice.
So I took the patching route. With it came an extra step that I believe ensures that I won't have to be doing the job over a few years from now.
SKILL LEVEL
Beginner and up. If you're a beginner, take care not to apply too much drywall compound. It goes on easy but is messy to sand away the excess.
TIME INVESTMENT
Several hours or more, depending on surface conditions.
TOOLS & SUPPLIES
- Taping knife
- Concrete bonding adhesive (you can also use patching plaster instead)
- Sanding sponge
- Painting supplies (paint brush or roller, primer, and paint of choice)
COST
Less than $20 for the patching supplies, some of which you may already have around the house. The cost of painting supplies vary according to the type of paint you choose, and whether or not you use primer.
Joe Provey
INSTRUCTIONS
1. First, use a taping knife to scrape down all the peeled areas and dig out loose plaster from cracks. Run the edge of your taping knife along hairline cracks to widen them a bit. From past experience, I know this is the only way they'll have a chance to grab enough compound to disappear.
2. Brush a Quickrete concrete bonding adhesive at full strength over all of the areas you scraped. I'd had experience patching concrete and stabilizing old mortar joints using this milky liquid (ethylene polyvinyl acetate co-polymer) with great success, and noticed on the label that it was recommended for bonding plaster to plaster, too.
Joe Provey
3. Once the adhesive is tacky, apply all-purpose joint compound with a taping knife, per the manufacturer's directions. You can also use patching plaster to make repairs like this, but premixed drywall compound is a lot more convenient and easier to sand.
4. When dry, lightly sand with a sanding sponge and apply a second coat. You can also use a clean taping knife to knock down (scrape smooth) bumps and ridges.
5. In areas where the cracks are deep, the plaster may need a third coat. (Note: Before using joint compound, check the label or maker's web site to be certain that it is recommended for use over plaster.) For my project, I chose USG's Sheetrock brand multi-purpose joint compound, which is fine for minor patching over plaster.
6. Before painting, coat all patched areas with a primer-sealer formulated for use over drywall compound.
As everyone who lives in an old house knows, the patches won't last forever. I'm hoping for at least a few years of a crack-free finish. Maintaining a reasonably consistent level of humidity in your home, combined with venting of kitchens, bathrooms and attics, will help reduce problems with plaster.
I awoke one morning not being able to stand the peeling and cracks any longer. The choices, I knew, were: cover with a thin sheet of drywall, skim coat the walls with plaster, or patch up the plaster.
Nor was I about to apply a skim coat, a process that involves covering the entire wall with a new topcoat of plaster or drywall compound. It's a difficult skill to master, especially if you're doing it only once or twice.
So I took the patching route. With it came an extra step that I believe ensures that I won't have to be doing the job over a few years from now.
SKILL LEVEL
Beginner and up. If you're a beginner, take care not to apply too much drywall compound. It goes on easy but is messy to sand away the excess.
TIME INVESTMENT
Several hours or more, depending on surface conditions.
TOOLS & SUPPLIES
- Taping knife
- Concrete bonding adhesive (you can also use patching plaster instead)
- Sanding sponge
- Painting supplies (paint brush or roller, primer, and paint of choice)
COST
Less than $20 for the patching supplies, some of which you may already have around the house. The cost of painting supplies vary according to the type of paint you choose, and whether or not you use primer.
Joe Provey
INSTRUCTIONS
1. First, use a taping knife to scrape down all the peeled areas and dig out loose plaster from cracks. Run the edge of your taping knife along hairline cracks to widen them a bit. From past experience, I know this is the only way they'll have a chance to grab enough compound to disappear.
2. Brush a Quickrete concrete bonding adhesive at full strength over all of the areas you scraped. I'd had experience patching concrete and stabilizing old mortar joints using this milky liquid (ethylene polyvinyl acetate co-polymer) with great success, and noticed on the label that it was recommended for bonding plaster to plaster, too.
Joe Provey
3. Once the adhesive is tacky, apply all-purpose joint compound with a taping knife, per the manufacturer's directions. You can also use patching plaster to make repairs like this, but premixed drywall compound is a lot more convenient and easier to sand.
4. When dry, lightly sand with a sanding sponge and apply a second coat. You can also use a clean taping knife to knock down (scrape smooth) bumps and ridges.
5. In areas where the cracks are deep, the plaster may need a third coat. (Note: Before using joint compound, check the label or maker's web site to be certain that it is recommended for use over plaster.) For my project, I chose USG's Sheetrock brand multi-purpose joint compound, which is fine for minor patching over plaster.
6. Before painting, coat all patched areas with a primer-sealer formulated for use over drywall compound.
As everyone who lives in an old house knows, the patches won't last forever. I'm hoping for at least a few years of a crack-free finish. Maintaining a reasonably consistent level of humidity in your home, combined with venting of kitchens, bathrooms and attics, will help reduce problems with plaster.
how to Unclog your Shower Head
Hard water is water that is high in mineral content -- elements such as calcium and magnesium among others. Hard water isn't harmful to your health, but over time, its minerals can build up inside pipes and cause clogs. You can check to see how hard your water is by lathering your soap or shower gel -- the lower amount of bubbles and suds, the harder the water.
With hard water deposits in your shower head, a once-long, luxurious shower could be reduced to a drippy annoyance. You'll know that you have a clogged shower head because the shower stream will become less consistent or the water pressure will begin to decrease.
Luckily there are a few solutions to unclogging a shower head -- and none of them require a lick of plumbing knowledge!
Solution #1: Denture tablets
Yes, denture tablets! If someone in your home already has denture tabs laying around you don't even need a trip to the store to fix this one.
1. Remove your shower head if possible. You don't have to do this, but it will make things much easier. Most shower heads can be removed by hand without screws, but check to see if there are any screws first before removing. If you can't remove the shower head by simply turning it, use a pair of pliers or a pipe wrench.
2. Get a bucket and fill it with water about halfway full with warm water.
3. Drop 2-4 tablets into the water and wait a minute for them to effervesce.
4. Place the shower head into the water and soak for several hours.
5. Remove the shower head and use a small brush or an old toothbrush to scrub the shower holes clean.
6. Rinse with water and put your shower head back in place.
Unclog a showerhead with white vinegar. Photo: Ace Hardware
Solution #2: White vinegar
Once again, you probably won't need to venture out to the store for this one. Get a bucket or large bowl and remove your shower head as instructed previously. You can also use a larger plastic bag and fasten it with a rubber band at the top.
1. Fill your bucket or bag with the white vinegar; about a pint if possible.
2. Submerge your shower head and allow a few hours for soaking.
3. Remove the shower head and scrub with a toothbrush or small brush.
4. Rinse with water and re-attach.
That's it! And if your shower head is stubborn, there's no harm in trying both options together.
Now you can get back to making that shower the most enjoyable part of your day.
With hard water deposits in your shower head, a once-long, luxurious shower could be reduced to a drippy annoyance. You'll know that you have a clogged shower head because the shower stream will become less consistent or the water pressure will begin to decrease.
Luckily there are a few solutions to unclogging a shower head -- and none of them require a lick of plumbing knowledge!
Solution #1: Denture tablets
Yes, denture tablets! If someone in your home already has denture tabs laying around you don't even need a trip to the store to fix this one.
1. Remove your shower head if possible. You don't have to do this, but it will make things much easier. Most shower heads can be removed by hand without screws, but check to see if there are any screws first before removing. If you can't remove the shower head by simply turning it, use a pair of pliers or a pipe wrench.
2. Get a bucket and fill it with water about halfway full with warm water.
3. Drop 2-4 tablets into the water and wait a minute for them to effervesce.
4. Place the shower head into the water and soak for several hours.
5. Remove the shower head and use a small brush or an old toothbrush to scrub the shower holes clean.
6. Rinse with water and put your shower head back in place.
Unclog a showerhead with white vinegar. Photo: Ace Hardware
Solution #2: White vinegar
Once again, you probably won't need to venture out to the store for this one. Get a bucket or large bowl and remove your shower head as instructed previously. You can also use a larger plastic bag and fasten it with a rubber band at the top.
1. Fill your bucket or bag with the white vinegar; about a pint if possible.
2. Submerge your shower head and allow a few hours for soaking.
3. Remove the shower head and scrub with a toothbrush or small brush.
4. Rinse with water and re-attach.
That's it! And if your shower head is stubborn, there's no harm in trying both options together.
Now you can get back to making that shower the most enjoyable part of your day.
DIY to Place your your spices
IN-DRAWER STORAGE
Spice Expand-a-Drawer. Photo: Improvements Catalog
If you have extra drawer space, an in-drawer spice rack might be just what you need. It would be great to have all those spices right in a drawer next to your oven, at easy reach. The Spice Expand-A-Drawer™ is one option; it expands on both sides, for a total of 12" to 23" wide, to hold up to 36 bottles of spices. Just think of the potential uses of something like this: vitamins, medicine, do-dads in your craft room -- oh, and spices!
Built-in Spice Rack. Photo: SieMatic
If you're currently renovating your kitchen space, think about spice storage when you're in the design stage. SieMatic's built-in spice rack and utensil drawer is a great built-in option. Or, if you're handy, we suggest building a custom insert for your drawer, cutting holes into a sheet of plywood to fit your spice containers.
UNDER-CABINET STORAGE
The space under your cabinet is typically not utilized. Not only is it a great space for extra lighting, paper towel holders and wine glass holders, but have you ever considered moving your spices from counter to under-cabinet? A handy all-in-one product like the Magnetic Under Cabinet Spice Rack from Get Organized! will help you move your clutter up above.
Magnetic Under-Cabinet Spice Rack. Photo: Old Sweet Song
You can also attempt to make a magnetic under-cabinet rack using spice containers, metal rulers and magnets, just as Amy from Old Sweet Song did in her kitchen.
SpiceStack. Photo: SpiceStack
In-cabinet storage
Judging by their website, the SpiceStack is one of those inventions that you would expect to see on an infomercial late at night in between re-runs of Welcome Back Kotter, but it's actually worth a look. It fits in standard cabinets, and there are two sizes to choose from. Spices stay stashed away, out of sight. When you need to access your basil or oregano, just use the unit's handy pull-down mechanism.
Spice Expand-a-Drawer. Photo: Improvements Catalog
If you have extra drawer space, an in-drawer spice rack might be just what you need. It would be great to have all those spices right in a drawer next to your oven, at easy reach. The Spice Expand-A-Drawer™ is one option; it expands on both sides, for a total of 12" to 23" wide, to hold up to 36 bottles of spices. Just think of the potential uses of something like this: vitamins, medicine, do-dads in your craft room -- oh, and spices!
Built-in Spice Rack. Photo: SieMatic
If you're currently renovating your kitchen space, think about spice storage when you're in the design stage. SieMatic's built-in spice rack and utensil drawer is a great built-in option. Or, if you're handy, we suggest building a custom insert for your drawer, cutting holes into a sheet of plywood to fit your spice containers.
UNDER-CABINET STORAGE
The space under your cabinet is typically not utilized. Not only is it a great space for extra lighting, paper towel holders and wine glass holders, but have you ever considered moving your spices from counter to under-cabinet? A handy all-in-one product like the Magnetic Under Cabinet Spice Rack from Get Organized! will help you move your clutter up above.
Magnetic Under-Cabinet Spice Rack. Photo: Old Sweet Song
You can also attempt to make a magnetic under-cabinet rack using spice containers, metal rulers and magnets, just as Amy from Old Sweet Song did in her kitchen.
SpiceStack. Photo: SpiceStack
In-cabinet storage
Judging by their website, the SpiceStack is one of those inventions that you would expect to see on an infomercial late at night in between re-runs of Welcome Back Kotter, but it's actually worth a look. It fits in standard cabinets, and there are two sizes to choose from. Spices stay stashed away, out of sight. When you need to access your basil or oregano, just use the unit's handy pull-down mechanism.
usd Magnets to Fixed Knives, forks, dishes, etc.unusual-uses
E is for Eating! Photo: Real Simple
1. Magnetic wall. Turn any wall into a giant magnet with magnetic paint, which can be applied to lots of surface materials, including drywall, plaster, wood, and metal. Then hang posters, clippings from magazines, artwork, photos -- just about anything really -- using smaller magnets. This is a great alternative for people who cringe whenever they need make a new hole in the wall.
2. Monogram place settings. Real Simple cleverly creates personalized place settings using those alphabet magnets from the fridge. It sticks to flatware made of nickel-free stainless steel (labeled 18/0).
3. Magnetic spice rack. Place magnets on the bottom of your spices and attach them to a sheet of steel next to your oven or a stainless steel backsplash.
4. Under-cabinet storage. Move things off your countertop by placing a magnetic strip underneath your cabinets. Then suspend jars with metal lids, or other metal items. (Also, take note of the wall-mounted magnetic knife strip in photo at left.)
Old Sweet Song
5. Screw saver. Take a magnet or magnetic paint and apply to a small piece of plywood. When you're putting together that tricky assembly-required furniture, place your screws, nuts and bolts on the magnetic surface to be sure you don't lose any. If you drop some nails on the floor, you can also use a magnet to pick them up with ease.
6. Stubborn battery remover. Have you ever tried to pry a tiny battery out with no luck? Try using a magnet to grab a hold of it, and you'll never have to use your fingernails again.
7. Medicine cabinet space saver. Have you ever opened your medicine cabinet and had your beauty tools spill out into your sink? Happens to me all the time. Place a magnetic board in the back of your medicine cabinet to hold your tweezers, scissors and other tools in place.
Use magnets to keep your chips crispy. Photo: L. Marie, Flickr
8. Keep snacks fresh. After you've had a snack, add two magnets to either side of a bag of potato chips, fold them over and let the magnets keep your chips fresh longer.
9. Make a compass. This cool kids' project provides direction on how to make a compass with a basic magnet. Hey, if a kid can DIY it, so can you.
10. Locate studs. If you're trying to hang a picture or a shelf on the wall and need to locate a metal studs, sliding a magnet across the wall is the old-fashioned way to do it. When you feel the magnet pull, or it sticks to the wall, odds are there's a stud right there.
Bonus tip: Fellow DIY Life writer Mrs. FIXIT offers one more idea for employing a magnet to keep your nails handy while you're using a hammer!
1. Magnetic wall. Turn any wall into a giant magnet with magnetic paint, which can be applied to lots of surface materials, including drywall, plaster, wood, and metal. Then hang posters, clippings from magazines, artwork, photos -- just about anything really -- using smaller magnets. This is a great alternative for people who cringe whenever they need make a new hole in the wall.
2. Monogram place settings. Real Simple cleverly creates personalized place settings using those alphabet magnets from the fridge. It sticks to flatware made of nickel-free stainless steel (labeled 18/0).
3. Magnetic spice rack. Place magnets on the bottom of your spices and attach them to a sheet of steel next to your oven or a stainless steel backsplash.
4. Under-cabinet storage. Move things off your countertop by placing a magnetic strip underneath your cabinets. Then suspend jars with metal lids, or other metal items. (Also, take note of the wall-mounted magnetic knife strip in photo at left.)
Old Sweet Song
5. Screw saver. Take a magnet or magnetic paint and apply to a small piece of plywood. When you're putting together that tricky assembly-required furniture, place your screws, nuts and bolts on the magnetic surface to be sure you don't lose any. If you drop some nails on the floor, you can also use a magnet to pick them up with ease.
6. Stubborn battery remover. Have you ever tried to pry a tiny battery out with no luck? Try using a magnet to grab a hold of it, and you'll never have to use your fingernails again.
7. Medicine cabinet space saver. Have you ever opened your medicine cabinet and had your beauty tools spill out into your sink? Happens to me all the time. Place a magnetic board in the back of your medicine cabinet to hold your tweezers, scissors and other tools in place.
Use magnets to keep your chips crispy. Photo: L. Marie, Flickr
8. Keep snacks fresh. After you've had a snack, add two magnets to either side of a bag of potato chips, fold them over and let the magnets keep your chips fresh longer.
9. Make a compass. This cool kids' project provides direction on how to make a compass with a basic magnet. Hey, if a kid can DIY it, so can you.
10. Locate studs. If you're trying to hang a picture or a shelf on the wall and need to locate a metal studs, sliding a magnet across the wall is the old-fashioned way to do it. When you feel the magnet pull, or it sticks to the wall, odds are there's a stud right there.
Bonus tip: Fellow DIY Life writer Mrs. FIXIT offers one more idea for employing a magnet to keep your nails handy while you're using a hammer!
costs just a few bucks to repair your toilet bowl
Rx
You've got to replace the toilet bowl's wax seal ring. It's a relatively easy and cheap DIY project that costs just a few bucks.
1. Start the job by shutting off the bathroom's water supply and flushing away any remaining water in the toilet's bowl. Then, remove the water supply line and the two bolts holding the toilet to the floor and lift the toilet from its position. Once you have the toilet off, there will be a fair amount of excess and rather disgusting-looking wax that will need to be scraped away. A putty knife works best for this as the wax will still be fairly soft.
2. Once you have a relatively clean connection, examine the flooring under its footprint. If there doesn't seem to be any damage to that flooring, lucky you: you may now skip to step 3. But if the flooring is damaged in any way, you've just added a new step to this procedure. You'll either need to do a small-scale patch job or replace the entire floor. The good news here is that there are several great options in do-it-yourself flooring, and if the space is small enough, you can choose from such money-savers as sheet vinyl remnants and quick-install vinyl tiles available at your local flooring retailer.
3. Install the new wax ring over toilet flange and gently move the toilet back into position. Lining up the toilet, wax seal and the bolts is a bit of a tricky alignment hassle, but once done, tighten down the bolts for a snug fit. A very important word of caution: make those bolts snug, but not tight. One turn too many and you'll wind up with a cracked toilet bowl -- and a much more expensive project!
4. "While you are at it" can be the five most expensive words in home improvement, but in this case they can actually save you money during this toilet repair session. For a few more bucks more, pick up and install new toilet flush and fill valves. Small leaks in these valves can cost thousands of gallons of water per year and drain your wallet in the process, so valve replacement is a simple way to cut toilet leaks and inefficiencies down to size.
Can I Treat This Myself?
This home improvement is practically klutz-proof. Just go easy when removing and reinstalling the toilet bowl -- it's heavy!
Tom Kraeutler delivers home improvement tips and ideas each week as host of The Money Pit Home Improvement Show, a nationally syndicated radio program. He is also author of My Home, My Money Pit: Your Guide to Every Home Improvement Adventure. You can also subscribe to Tom's latest home improvement podcast or free home improvement newsletter.
Got a DIY disaster you'd like us to feature? Send a photo of the disaster to DIYDisasterDr@aol.com, and we just might publish it here on DIY Life. All submissions will remain anonymous.
You've got to replace the toilet bowl's wax seal ring. It's a relatively easy and cheap DIY project that costs just a few bucks.
1. Start the job by shutting off the bathroom's water supply and flushing away any remaining water in the toilet's bowl. Then, remove the water supply line and the two bolts holding the toilet to the floor and lift the toilet from its position. Once you have the toilet off, there will be a fair amount of excess and rather disgusting-looking wax that will need to be scraped away. A putty knife works best for this as the wax will still be fairly soft.
2. Once you have a relatively clean connection, examine the flooring under its footprint. If there doesn't seem to be any damage to that flooring, lucky you: you may now skip to step 3. But if the flooring is damaged in any way, you've just added a new step to this procedure. You'll either need to do a small-scale patch job or replace the entire floor. The good news here is that there are several great options in do-it-yourself flooring, and if the space is small enough, you can choose from such money-savers as sheet vinyl remnants and quick-install vinyl tiles available at your local flooring retailer.
3. Install the new wax ring over toilet flange and gently move the toilet back into position. Lining up the toilet, wax seal and the bolts is a bit of a tricky alignment hassle, but once done, tighten down the bolts for a snug fit. A very important word of caution: make those bolts snug, but not tight. One turn too many and you'll wind up with a cracked toilet bowl -- and a much more expensive project!
4. "While you are at it" can be the five most expensive words in home improvement, but in this case they can actually save you money during this toilet repair session. For a few more bucks more, pick up and install new toilet flush and fill valves. Small leaks in these valves can cost thousands of gallons of water per year and drain your wallet in the process, so valve replacement is a simple way to cut toilet leaks and inefficiencies down to size.
Can I Treat This Myself?
This home improvement is practically klutz-proof. Just go easy when removing and reinstalling the toilet bowl -- it's heavy!
Tom Kraeutler delivers home improvement tips and ideas each week as host of The Money Pit Home Improvement Show, a nationally syndicated radio program. He is also author of My Home, My Money Pit: Your Guide to Every Home Improvement Adventure. You can also subscribe to Tom's latest home improvement podcast or free home improvement newsletter.
Got a DIY disaster you'd like us to feature? Send a photo of the disaster to DIYDisasterDr@aol.com, and we just might publish it here on DIY Life. All submissions will remain anonymous.
Using the old toothbrush Clean Grout
Whether on the floor, in the shower, or on the kitchen backsplash, grout can be cleaned effectively -- and naturally -- easily with just a few simple tools.
Tools & Supplies
Washcloth
Old toothbrush: if you have an old electric one to spare, all the better!
Baking Soda
Water
(Simple, huh?)
Directions
1. Wash the area with water using your washcloth. This gets rid of any easy-to-remove particles and allows you to start with a relatively clean slate.
2. Combine baking soda and water to make a paste.
3. Using the toothbrush, apply the paste to the grout, scrubbing vigorously. This is where the electric toothbrush comes in handy if you have one -- the vibrations help loosen dirt more vigorously than your own man power can.
4. Wipe off any excess paste. You also make want to wipe the tiles down again with a wet washcloth.
This solution requires a lot of elbow grease, so be prepared to scrub. Some recipes suggest replacing the water with vinegar for a deeper clean. For really tough stains, let the paste sit a while before scrubbing it. If the grout still isn't coming clean, apply natural lemon juice directly to the stain, let it sit a few minutes and wipe it clean.
If the stains are too stubborn there are more grout cleaning solutions available. These remedies aren't quite as natural, but each one pulls from items you already have around the house.
Directions
- Scrub the grout with toothpaste. Choose whitening toothpaste for a little extra polish. Again, here's your excuse to get a new electric toothbrush because this job would be much easier with your old one!
- Erase the stains with a pencil eraser. Yep, grab your number 2 pencil and erase away!
- Cover the grout with shaving cream. Leave it for a few minutes then scrub it off.
- Mix hydrogen peroxide and baking soda into a paste. When the bubbling stops, apply it to the grout. Let it sit for a while then scrub it off with an old toothbrush.
Once the tile is clean, it's time for a little preventative maintenance. Inspect your grout regularly and apply a commercial grout sealer once a year. Keeping it well sealed makes sure it doesn't become home to mold or mildew. Keep the grout dry when you can and take care of small stains as soon as you notice them.
Bring your tile back to life; you'll be amazed at how new it can look with some of these basic solutions.
Editor's note: We couldn't help but interject our own grout-cleaning tip: oxygen bleach. It's non-toxic, fume-free, and is color- and fabric-safe, so your shower curtain or anything else nearby won't be harmed. We swear by oxygen bleach for a lot of cleaning tasks (our favorite is the powdered version of OxiClean) -- but especially for grimy grout.
Tools & Supplies
Washcloth
Old toothbrush: if you have an old electric one to spare, all the better!
Baking Soda
Water
(Simple, huh?)
Directions
1. Wash the area with water using your washcloth. This gets rid of any easy-to-remove particles and allows you to start with a relatively clean slate.
2. Combine baking soda and water to make a paste.
3. Using the toothbrush, apply the paste to the grout, scrubbing vigorously. This is where the electric toothbrush comes in handy if you have one -- the vibrations help loosen dirt more vigorously than your own man power can.
4. Wipe off any excess paste. You also make want to wipe the tiles down again with a wet washcloth.
This solution requires a lot of elbow grease, so be prepared to scrub. Some recipes suggest replacing the water with vinegar for a deeper clean. For really tough stains, let the paste sit a while before scrubbing it. If the grout still isn't coming clean, apply natural lemon juice directly to the stain, let it sit a few minutes and wipe it clean.
If the stains are too stubborn there are more grout cleaning solutions available. These remedies aren't quite as natural, but each one pulls from items you already have around the house.
Directions
- Scrub the grout with toothpaste. Choose whitening toothpaste for a little extra polish. Again, here's your excuse to get a new electric toothbrush because this job would be much easier with your old one!
- Erase the stains with a pencil eraser. Yep, grab your number 2 pencil and erase away!
- Cover the grout with shaving cream. Leave it for a few minutes then scrub it off.
- Mix hydrogen peroxide and baking soda into a paste. When the bubbling stops, apply it to the grout. Let it sit for a while then scrub it off with an old toothbrush.
Once the tile is clean, it's time for a little preventative maintenance. Inspect your grout regularly and apply a commercial grout sealer once a year. Keeping it well sealed makes sure it doesn't become home to mold or mildew. Keep the grout dry when you can and take care of small stains as soon as you notice them.
Bring your tile back to life; you'll be amazed at how new it can look with some of these basic solutions.
Editor's note: We couldn't help but interject our own grout-cleaning tip: oxygen bleach. It's non-toxic, fume-free, and is color- and fabric-safe, so your shower curtain or anything else nearby won't be harmed. We swear by oxygen bleach for a lot of cleaning tasks (our favorite is the powdered version of OxiClean) -- but especially for grimy grout.
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